VIP

I had received word from Viet Nam prior to my departure that my friend Son would arrange pick-up for me at the airport. With translation issues I didn't really know what that meant so I wondered how it would all come to pass. I envisioned myself looking for him in the sea of people gathered constantly to meet friends/family on these international flights so I was a bit nervous I'd miss him or wouldn't see him. Of course, it's easy for him to spot me since I pretty much stick out like a sore thumb here. Blond curly hair, over 5' tall, and just plain big compared to everyone else. So I exited the plane, walked to the end of the jetway and was met by Son and two guys in uniform. He apparently has friends in very high places as this was the Chief of Police and the "second in command" here to escort me. After a quick greeting I was whisked away foregoing all lines and brought directly to the front of the VIP line where I was quickly welcomed and allowed through the gates. Easy and fast! Usually it takes so long. I felt like royalty!

At the hotel my room was not ready so I couldn't check in - - or take a shower. I begged for a shower somewhere, anywhere so they allowed me to use the maid's closet where there was only cold water (and not towel) so I eagerly welcomed it! It was wonderful and exactly what I needed. But I only had 15 minutes to shower, get dressed, and meet Son again for a pre-arranged lunch with 5 of his friends. With wet hair I ran outside where he waited in his car with his friend Binh who acts as interpreter for me and those that speak only Vietnamese. I was just happy to be there within the 15 minute timeframe! Nevermind that I had wet hair and the same clothes on! Thankfully I thought to change in Taipei.

Lunch was interesting. Jet-lagged, I wasn't hungry and was extremely tired but I happily sat in the room listening to these friends talk. And toast. We toasted no fewer than 50 times during the course of the dinner. Thankfully Binh was there to interpret for me and for them! A few times Son leaned over and pointed at the men and said, 'Very important. Very, very, very important.' So I sat up straighter and wondered what I was doing wrong that he had to keep reminding me who they were. Evidently they are the equivalent of Secret Service officers. One of these men is the #1 man for Secret Service. They are involved with all VIP guests to Ho Chi Minh City, including Presidents Clinton and Bush, Condoleeza Rice and others. One of these 'very important people' offered me to stay at his home in Sapa when I visit there again. Sapa is a town on the border of China that boasts excellent trekking and beautiful mountain vistas. I was there in 2000 and loved the place and the people.

The courses of food and wine kept coming and coming and coming - - just when I thought it was over more came. It seems as though a sign of a good host is food aplenty. If there is no food left over it would appear as though someone had to go without so in this case the wine glass nor the plate was ever allowed to be empty. If my rice bowl sat idle for too long Son would place food from his own plate in my bowl. If I wasn't drinking the rest of my wine I was ordered to place it someone else's cup. If my tea cup reached 1/2 or below, it was filled. After about 15 plates of food - - no kidding - - I was told to place an order for my favorite food. Pressured, I picked crab. The crab came and I was told as the guest of honor I was entitled to eat this crab by myself. What? The thing was huge. I was already full (and tired and weak and dizzy) so I insited Thuy, one of the wives, help me eat it which she graciously did. But, she told me the 'big leg is for you as guest, I take little leg.' Yum, it was all good, but I wasn't feeling good enough to eat a feast. It seemed like the movie 'Babette's Feast' with everyone eating and sucking their food loudly. Under normal circumstances I would have delighted in trying all those new dishes, including the frog meat, but I just couldn't.

One dish I did not order was 'pork prepared as false dog meat.' What would that be, I wonder?

During the course of the meal I was able to understand a few words. One of those words that came up frequently was 'massage.' Then, 'Jane, you like massage?' Hm. How do I answer that at this table full of men? Men that I don't know. If it wasn't for Thuy being there I might have been concerned but at the end of the meal we all piled in to Son's new Accura MDX (around $120,000 VN due to 70% tax on autos) and headed to the spa. Once there I was whisked away by the staff to the female side where I received the most amazing massage of my life. The girl actually stood on my back and dug in with her heels and toes between every vertabrae making cracking sounds I've never heard before. She also crawled on my back using her knees to grind in to my shoulders and spine. It hurt but felt good, I wanted her to stop but wanted her to keep going. It wasn't one of those restful-new-age-music spas. Rather it was the kind you say ooh, ouch, ugh all the time. But then she started on my head and face and I thought this must be what heaven is. Seriously. When she was done after 1 hour I asked for a foot massage so was taken to another room with a bunch of lazy boys where a guy proceeded to knead my legs and feet at a speed and with a vigor I've never seen before. It was like he was some kind of a foot and leg machine that devoured my appendages - - like a wood chipper or meat grinder. I can't even describe it! It was good pain. That's the best way to describe it. I could barely walk out of the place. I drank plain hot water during this massage and had to sit and recouperate a little before leaving. I went to the reception desk to pay for my treatments but was told that it was already taken care of. I never saw any of the other men again except Binh who took me back to my hotel in a taxi. I will see them all again as there is a golf outing I've been invited to attend with them. They will buy me golf clubs for this outing since I am a left-handed golfer.

At the hotel I rested for about 1.5 hours listening to the honking horns and noises outside my room. I have a 2nd floor room with a balcony, a suite with a beautiful sitting area, huge bed, marble and wood floors, high ceilings, and horns/antlers on the walls. ?? The tub is heart shaped and has jets all over for a spa. Very nice and only $45/night, including breakfast. I like the place a lot and the location is wonderful right near Dolce & Gabana, Prada, and the like. Those stores are so out of place here, but it's a tourist area and that's what tourists like, I guess.

Son's son Son called to invite me to dinner with him and his dad. "Are you free?" he asked. "Yes," I responded. "Okay, we pick you up in 15 minute." Seriously!? I have only 15 minutes to get ready again? But I did it and met the son Son in the lobby. We went to a Chinese restaurant that is the largest in Saigon. I was a spectacle there evidently as I was stared at and pointed at the entire time. We had an enjoyable dinner with young Son talking a lot and practicing his English. He is 14 or 15 years old and lives in Saigon on his own in an apartment at one of his dad's companies. He attends the International School where the education is much better than anything he could get in Vung Tau. His American name is 'Mark' and that is stamped on his school shirt/uniform. His sister attends school in New Zealand and she has adopted the Western name of 'Catherine.' The parents live 1.5 hours away in Vung Tau so young Son is on his own and has been for 3 years. He said when he was in 6th grade he felt sad but now he likes it and is used to it. His parents either visit him or he goes home on weekends. His uncle stays with him sometimes but is responsible to take him to and from school each day. It's an interesting situation but education is so important here that if one has the means to pay for it it becomes a total priority above everything else.

After dropping off young Son, Son and I walked to a place where we could listen to music. But I was so tired that after walking 3 km I went back to my hotel and went to bed instead. I will see Son and his family another day when I am more rested. I slept well through the night in spite of the honking horns and city noises. It's great to be back in Viet Nam!