Sunday, September 30, 2007
Joyful and delightful
Those are the two words I use to describe this place. Everyone sings or whistles. Most everyone seems to have a truly happy heart. In the market yesterday I was touched more than I've ever been touched before: my arms were rubbed, my hair tousled, by back patted, etc. Nothing felt intrusive or out of line, just curious people reaching out, I guess. In the Barkhor Square is a market that acts as a basic meeting place. In 1985 it was cleared and in 2000 rennovated. There's no doubt that the clearing of the square serves to allow the government complete access to viewing all activities in the square; there are video cameras perched on the roofs. It has been a site of protest by the Tibetans and that's what the government wants to stop. Evidently in 1998 there was a scuffle between the Chinese and Tibetans with many Tibetans being killed and one Dutch tourist shot in the shoulder. Pilgrims in mostly dark blue and dark red dress walk around the plaza clockwise apparently as a sign of solidarity and as part of their worship. They are an incredible group of people with their dedication and the speed at which they travel around the square. Some of the children appeared to be sleeping or almost sleeping yet they were attempting to keep step with the parents or were dragged along. Many people stuck their tongues out at me with big smiles on their faces. The reason being is that they're showing me they are not ghosts - - a ghost would have a green tongue so since theirs isn't green they are greeting me in a friendly manner. Many people took my hands and put them on their shoulders as though I was passing good fortune on to them, I imagine. Parents would bring their kids to me as I was resting and try to get them to smile for me (most just cried because I am so odd looking to them). Kids would drag their parents to me I suppose to touch me? The parents would resist unless I nodded approval. All of this was done with huge smiles so I know it was a positive thing. One little girl put her fingers through my curls and laughed. Many men stopped and just stared at Eileen or I. Women did the same thing. It was constant to the point that for a time it was difficult to talk to a shop/stall keeper because there was such a crowd following behind and leaning so close in - - they were definitely close standers and didn't have a problem leaning on us, stepping on us, pushing us, etc. Hoe and Son are shown discussing a potential purchase with a group of curious bystanders crowding them from behind. Very interesting to see their curiosity about everything: what's in our backpack, what are we buying, what are we talking about, what are we looking at. It was all so positive that I can't wait to go back to the Barkhor Square again - - I loved those people!! In general we've had our photos taken by strangers - - most with cell phone cameras. Eileen was zipping the bottoms of my pants back on (from shorts - - they're convertible pants-to-shorts) yesterday and there was quite a crowd gathered! I know it must have been funny to see her doing that! Many locals were taking pictures with their cell phones. A couple of monks asked Eileen to take their photo; I have a picture of it. I wish I had gotten the one where they were looking at it on their digital camera! They were laughing and grateful that she took it. Son bought some crazy sunglasses; Hoe and Son each bought a cowboy hat so they were posing in that. I have most of it on the moving camera but show a couple shots here. We had a great time in the Barkhor Square shopping, walking, and just watching the pilgrims. Joyful and delightful is definitely how I describe this place and these people.
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