After breakfast (and more talking with Beata and Mike) we headed to Mt. Everest. Everything takes longer because of road conditions. And let me tell you about road conditions! We started out at the bottom, of course, and climbed and climbed and climbed on gravel roads that switched back so dramatically it could make your head spin! Back and forth we went until we reached a pass of 5200 meters (17,000 feet), then down again on the same kind of switch back roads. Then back up again! Not again! But yes, again. This time at the top we saw Mt. Everest again in all its glory with only minimal cloud cover - - stunning. Another gift. Then back down on the switch back roads. Our driver told us that this road is only 1 month old. One month!? What was the other one like? I wondered about it because there were no guardrails - - but there were men and women on the roadside digging holes by hand and there were a bunch of metal tubes that I assume are the guard rails lying on the side of the road. Bumpy, taxing, wearing, swerve-y, tiring. But we made it to base camp. We bundled up due to the extremely cold (and dry) temperature and the strong wind gusts. Then we walked through base camp where travellers can buy stuff like fossils, amber with insects in it, horse bells, jewelry and the like. But it was just too dang cold to look too closely on the way in since the wind was blowing right in our faces. We were given a postcard at the entry point that was already stamped and postmarked with Everest's original and official name: Mt. Qomolagma. So we were dropped off at "base camp" where there are tents set up all around that contain lodging, restaurants, tea houses, etc. There are also lots of souvenir tables set up all around. The tents have names like 'Hotel California', 'Disneyland', 'Lost Horizon' and other clever names. The place is far from any of those names! It was windy and cold when we were there. Out of breath while we acclimatized, we walked to the horse and carriages where we boarded one to take up the remaining part of the walk 7 km up a switch back road. We were only too glad to get in the carriage and snuggle under the big wool blanket for the slow ascent. There were many rocks along the path that I wanted to jump out and grab but of course didn't. Adding weight to my already stuffed luggage is not something I want to do since I'll already be paying overages for my over-stuffedness. On our way up we saw our friends Beata and Mike along with Beata's brother whom I called Mathias (not really his name but that's a whole other story!), along with Mike's boss and his wife. We were happy to see them and expected to see them so weren't surprised - - just very happy. Beata and Mike are two people I enjoy thoroughly and never want to lose touch with in my entire life; there's a connection there that is special with a lot of fun and laughter mixed in! But I'll tell you more about them later. When we reached the top we were left to our own devices to explore; no direction or comment from our Tibetan-speaking guide at all. So we wandered. Now this is the real deal; the real base camp. This is where people do take off from to climb the mountain. There is a police station and what I assumed to be sort of first aid place. There's a sign on the side of a building (drawn directly on the building) that says anyone going any further than this point must check in with the base camp officials or pay a stiff fine (only $200US isn't stiff enough, in my opinion). There's also a monument that mentions we're at Mt. Qomolanga Base Camp and are at 5200 meters (17,000 feet). So we took our photo beside it and felt a sense of accomplishment about being there! I can only imagine what the people who really climb that mountain feel - - it must be an amazing feeling. It is such an awe-inspiring mountain and to be at the base of it looking up was amazing even though it was mostly covered in clouds for the time we were there. After collecting a few small rocks, going to the bathroom outside because the toilet was so gross, and taking a little walk around the small area we were on our way. But first we ran into our New Jersey friends from the night before: 3 brothers and 2 sisters, the young and exuberant group. We talked awhile about shared experiences, laughed a little, then took a group photo and said our good-byes. We hopped in our cart, they hopped in theirs and down the switch back roads we went. Suddenly, our driver veered off-road on a "shortcut path" that was nothing but rocks. I kept reminding myself that the road less traveled is less traveled for a reason but when in Tibet you trust the Tibetans so I sat back and enjoyed the bumpy, fast ride. Then it dawned on me that we were in a race with the New Jersey carts and by gum, our cart was going to win come hell or high water according to our driver! He started singing a Tibetan song everyone sings and hums so I whipped out my moving camera to capture the beautiful, soothing sound that I have grown to love. For full effect I let the camera bounce as I was bouncing so the viewer will be able to get the same feeling I had, almost. After going over quite large rocks and sheets of slate we made it to the main road just in front of the New Jersey riders!! We squealed and they yelled and we all laughed. "Good?" our driver said. "Good!!!!" I responded. It was fun and made the trip down entertaining. Then the driver behind started singing. What a beautiful sound up there on Everest in the cold in a carriage with a horse and a driver in the middle of Tibet where there is no world news, no apparent knowledge of the world other than that which affects them. What an amazing experience. "Don't forget this" I thought as I looked back at the cloud-covered Everest.
So we ended our journey with some photos with our driver (photos posted later) and a little shopping at the first base camp and off we went. Like a dog to its kennel I entered that car knowing what was ahead. More bumps, more dust, and hopefully more views of Everest.
We ate down the road at the Rongbuk Monastery Guesthouse a small inn that overlooks Everest. It is where we were intending to stay until the weather turned and the guides were sending everyone back to the guesthouse we stayed at in Tingri (they were right, it would have been freezing cold). So while eating our spicy Ramen noodles and drinking our tea I stood to take some photos of the place. I looked out the window and saw the clouds move away from the peak of Everest so shouted (louder than I intended), "There's the peak!" and everyone came to a window to take a quick photo. I snapped quite a few before it clouded up again never to be seen by us again. Two days in a row we saw that mountain. It is a rarity so we feel fortunate. A beautiful site. We headed back to Tingri on our bumpy ride but I fell fast asleep and bounced all the way home without being bothered at all.
Arriving in Tingri we were excited to get a hot Thermos full of water so we could "shower." It had been 2 days since our last shower and we needed our hair washed and to get the fine dust off of our skin. Thankfully those Deer Brand Thermoses really keep water hot so we were able to pseudo-shower and at least feel clean. With the sun hot for so long during the day up there we were able to sit in the sun and let our hair dry and just relax. Sun and wind burned, we relived the day while more sun beat down on us. And we were clean. And we were happy.
We had dinner in the communal room with everyone and stayed late to talk some more. I can't get enough of my conversations with Beata and Mike - - and of course, Mathias, Beata's older brother. Mathias, we'll call him that for now, has a problem with the altitude apparently because he was nauseated, headache-y, and felt generally crappy. No offense "Mathias" but you didn't look like you felt well at all! I empathized with him and wished there was some secret remedy I possessed so I could help make him better. He persevered, though, and was a trooper. After talking into the night and enjoying every minute, not wanting it to end, I went to bed. It's a good life on the rooftop of the world! A hard life, but a good one!
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